A year in Cantabria

February

The longer days in February – nearly two hours are added to the day this month – allow gardens, allotments and farmland to be tended in preparation for the more intensive work of later months, with beans, corn and robust flowers being planted.

Monday 3rd of February sees the feast of San Blas (Saint Blaise) who is widely regarded as the patron saint of sore throats and medical specialists for ears, nose and throat. Celebrations will take place over the previous weekend, including the related Candelaria events at Torrelavega and Casar de Periedes, among others.



Saint Valentine´s Day falls on Friday 14th and romantic hearts can look out for cards, chocolates and flowers in shops and stalls across the region.

Hotel Bahía in Santander is hosting a musical event featuring the music of Coldplay and Imagine Dragons as interpreted by the string quartet Candlelight on Sunday 16th February.

Towards the end of February, Cantabria often enjoys the arrival of the first hauls of  mackerel (verdel). With this catch, the region’s fishing ports come to life after the winter and there is usually a small celebration to mark the return to fishing activity.

Cantabria bids farewell to winter and heralds the arrival of spring with marzas which normally take place over the last few days of February, especially the 28th. The singers are decked out in traditional Cantabrian dress and perform classic songs from the region's folklore, many of which celebrate an end to winter and the beginning of spring.

With Easter falling quite late this year (Sunday 20th April), Carnival celebrations are put on hold until early March.

January

Happy New Year.

An interesting astronomical fact to start the year; Saturday 4th January marks the perihelion: the day when the planet Earth is at its closest point to the Sun. Sadly, for us in the northern hemisphere, that proximity doesn't make things any warmer! However, if you find the long, cold, dark days of January something of a challenge then you might take comfort from the fact that, by the end of the month, the days will be forty-three minutes longer than they were at the beginning.

It is tempting to think of the winter months as a quiet time for farmers but there is still much fresh, local produce to be enjoyed at this time of the year. Local shops and markets will often have good stocks of broccoli, leeks, celery, cauliflower, spinach and cabbage. You might also find parsnips, swedes, turnips and fennel. Large farms and small allotments alike will be preparing to plant peppers, tomatoes, carrots, aubergines, radishes and peas.

Despite the winter, there is still plenty to celebrate across the region this month, starting with the festivities of Los Reyes Magos on 5th/6th January with the Wise Men of the bible story making their dramatic appearance in towns and villages across the region, often greeted with fireworks and parades. Many of the attractions such as Nativity scenes, ice rinks and street markets will remain open until this weekend. Traditionally it has been the 'Reyes' (Kings) who bring children their gifts although they face increasing competition from 'Papa Noel'. Another charming custom is for children to leave out shoes where the Reyes will deposit any presents.


This year, the 5th coincides with La Vijanera - a colourful and raucous event involving a series of dramatic episodes designed to represent the renewal of activity in nature after the winter. The drama begins before dawn with children running through the streets of the village ringing bells and continues through the day with all the proceedings taking place against a background of noisy cow-bells, drums and the occasional bagpipe. You can find out more details here http://www.vijanera.com/


La Vijanera

Later in the month there are celebrations for San Sebastián on the 20th in Reinosa and Vargas which has its own special event named La Perola. The early Christian martyr, San Vicente, is associated with several place names in Cantabria and his feast day is marked widely across the region on 22nd January. Look out for local holidays, religious services and other events related to this saint, especially in San Vicente de la Barquera and Potes. Weather permitting, the celebrations in San Vicente include a cattle fair and ploughing competition.

December

Advent starts on Sunday 1st December and most towns and villages in Cantabria will be marking the beginning of the Christmas season. This usually involves the ceremonial lighting of Christmas illuminations, setting up Christmas trees and, in the larger towns, the opening of Christmas markets, ice-skating rinks and Christmas fairs.   Also, many shops and supermarkets will be open this weekend to encourage shoppers into the Christmas spirit.



Friday 6
th December commemorates Spain’s Constitution which has been in place now for more than forty years following the transition from the previous regime. This date also marks the feast day of Saint Nicholas - in Christian tradition, the original Santa Claus - which is marked in several locations across Cantabria including Helgueras and Castro Urdiales.

One of the most spectacular Christmas events can be witnessed in Cartes, just outside Torrelavega where a high wire Santa and his sled speeds across the night time sky. You can also visit Santa in his home when he returns to earth.


                                                   
Santa's grotto in Cartes

The religious feast of the Immaculate Conception is usually a Bank Holiday but, as it is celebrated on Sunday 8th December, this is not the case this year.

It is worth looking out for local feast days and celebrations such as the feast of Santa Barbara in Puente San Miguel from the 2nd to the 6th of December or Santa Lucía on 13th December which is celebrated in Santander, Carrejo (south of Cabezón de la Sal) and elsewhere across the region.

With Christmas Day falling on a Wednesday this year, the following day, 26th is an ordinary day, i.e. not a Bank Holiday while New Year’s Eve – with its traditional grape eating to accompany the chimes of midnight - tends to be celebrated within families.

November

Our month begins with a Bank Holiday for All Saints Day. Although essentially a religious occasion, the holiday also provides an opportunity to recover from the excitement and excesses of Halllowe’en.

The weekend of the 8-10 November sees the orujo fiesta in Potes. This lively mountain resort fills with visitors and local people intent on sampling the different varieties of orujo. The area around PotesLiébana, is said to enjoy a micro climate, similar to that of the Mediterranean, which allows for the cultivation of wine-producing grapes which form the basis of the drink, orujo.

At Casar de Periedo on the weekend of 16-17 November, you can visit the Alubias festival. While this is primarily a celebration of the locally produced white beans, you can also try a wide variety of local Cantabrian produce, see traditional crafts and ornaments and enjoy Cantabrian music and dancing. 

                                                                     


Preparing the traditional communal bean feast!

A really interesting local Cantabrian custom is la magosta – an opportunity to harvest and roast the edible chestnuts that grow abundantly in the woods and forests of the region. Each town or village in rural areas will have its own event, often accompanied by live music and dance.

The month ends with the feast of Saint Andrew (30th November) which is marked in many communities across Cantabria, including Castro Urdiales which hosts a maritime procession, Comillas and nearby Trasvía, where you will be treated to a local delicacy – hard boiled eggs!October

Although not strictly a fiesta, one of the real treats at this time of the year in Cantabria is to venture into the woods and forests to listen and, if you're lucky, observe the berrea. This is the mating season for deer and the sonorous baying of stags, the occasional duel, small herds of females and the splendid antlers make for a wonderful spectacle. A number of organisations organise trips which usually take place early morning or at dusk, and details can often be found on the web page of Cantabria Infinita.

Cantabria’s vineyards are steadily developing a notable reputation for producing good quality wine; white wines in particular. While the climate doesn’t lend itself to the depth or variety of wines from regions such as La Rioja, recent years have seen an increase in the number of bodegas operating across Cantabria. The villages associated with the bodega will often hold a fiesta in October to celebrate the wine harvest. A good example can be enjoyed in Potes over the first weekend of the month.                                12th October is a national holiday and several different names are attached to the day: it is variously known as ‘La Virgen del Pilar’ – referring to a reported apparition by the Virgin Mary in Zaragoza in AD 40; Día de la Hispanidad - commemorating Columbus’ arrival on American soil in 1492 and Spain’s historical links with wider Spanish speaking world; and Day of the Armed Forces. The holiday is marked with military parades, religious processions and local fiestas across the region. Among the events is the annual Tudanca cattle show at Cabezón de la Sal where you can admire splendid examples of this impressive breed. This year the holiday falls on a Saturday but many shops will be closed to mark the occasion.

Oktoberfest is usually thought of as a German autumnal celebration but you can find good examples in Cantabria, for example at Laredo and Castro Urdiales with plenty of national and international beers for you to sample. 

Cabezón de la Sal celebrates is historical association with mining, especially salt mining from where it takes its name, with la Feria de la Sal on 27th October. There will be displays, period costumes and other events for you to enjoy. Evidence of mining in the area can be found nearby at Udías.

Hallowe’en, on 31st October, provides an opportunity for people of all ages to indulge in lurid and scary dressing up. The streets are filled with zombies, vampires, witches and a wide range of characters from films, TV shows, comics and books.

September

Although many international and Spanish visitors to Cantabria will be heading home as summer draws towards its close, there is very little let up in the celebrations and festivities across the region.

The final events and closing ceremony of the Guerras Cantabras take place on Sunday 1st September. 

San Vicente de la Barquera celebrates its Mozucu over the weekend of 7 - 8 September. Look out for the local dish, sorropotún, which is shared communally on the beach.

Spain's principle cycling event, La Vuelta, visits Cantabria on Wednesday 4th with a stage that travels inland from Arnuero to Santander.

Santander's bull ring converts into a concert venue from 11th - 15th with a full programme of national music stars.

Cantabria’s patron saint – La Bien Aparecida – is marked on 15th September - a Sunday. The feast day is celebrated widely across the region and is preceded by a week long fiesta in Ampuero which includes bull running through the streets and a spectacular torch light procession.

In 1556, the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, renounced his titles – handing the Kingdom of Spain to his son, Philip II – and set out on a journey to his final retirement home at Yuste, near Cáceres. He arrived in Spain at Laredo – at that time the country’s principal port – and commenced his long journey southwards. These events are celebrated at Laredo from 27 to 29 September with the entire town decked out in Renaissance finery.

                                   

                                                          Charles V (portrait attributed to Titian)

The entire town of Potes seems to spill onto the streets over weekend of 14 -15 as the mountain area known as Liébena celebrates the Fiestas de la Cruz with the cross above the town serving as a focal point for the weekend’s festivities.

The southernmost part of Cantabria, Campoo, marks its culture with the Día de Campoo in Reinosa on Sunday 29th. Among the key events is a procession of floats decorated in typical styles of the area which takes place the preceding Saturday (24th).

August

The month of August is essentially one long fiesta in Cantabria. Here are just some of the highlights.

Torrelavega celebrates its main summer festival La Virgen Grande from 11th to 20th with live music events and street markets in and around the town. Leading up to this event, you can enjoy four days (9-12) of live music at La Lechera, including a trip down memory lane with Boney M.

The Festival of Nations returns to the Sardinero area in Santander with a full programme of concerts and events as well as opportunities to sample food and drink from around the world. The Festival features many Spanish speaking nations and runs from 10th August to 8th September.

If witchcraft and all things spooky are your thing, then Barriopalacio, Anievas is the place to head for over the weekend 10-11th. This village has long been associated with the world of magic and mystery and houses its own small museum. This weekend there are a variety of events taking place in and around the village.  

Sunday 11th August sees a major celebration of Cantabrian traditional life and culture in Cabezón de la Sal. The all day event includes folk dancing, traditional music and a parade of Tudanca cattle.

The feast of Virgen del Campo on 13th August is celebrated in many rural areas across the region and you can expect shops, civic offices and banks to be closed for local 'festivos'. 

15th August is a national Bank Holiday in honour of The Assumption and there are religious processions and other events across the region.

The following day -16th – is the lesser known feast of San Roque which is celebrated widely (and often noisily) in different villages and barrios throughout Cantabria.

Fans of the Sitcom, Friends, can enjoy a Spanish version of the hit musical parody at the Concha Espina Thetare in the centre of Torrelavega on Saturday 17th.

That same day (17th) sees the start of Spain's premier cycling event, La Vuelta a España which passes through Cantabria on 4th September.

It is the turn of bikers (and especially, Los Harleys) from across Spain to gather in Cabezón de la Sal for a three day event of music and fun from 22nd - 24th August.

One of Cantabria’s principal events take place over the weekend starting 23rd August: with the first instalment of the re-enactment of the final battles in the Roman conquest of Cantabria. Sites for Las Guerras Cántabras are located in and around Corrales de la Buelna, with the second part taking place the following weekend. Find out more here Guerras cantabras

At Laredo you can witness a truly spectacular procession and magnificent floral displays as the town celebrates its Batalla de las Flores on Friday 30th August; part of the town's Semana Grande.


                                                          
Batalla de las flores, Laredo

You can don your best white outfit and head to Comillas to see out the month. The town celebrates its Dia del Indiano from 31st August to 1st September with street food, live music and theatre and other events, all with a Cuban flavour. 

July

With summer in full flow, it sometimes seems that the start of nearly every day is heralded by the ringing of bells or the boom of rockets as fiesta after fiesta is announced. It is worth looking out for local posters which will often have useful information. Here are some of the principal events to look out for.

The first weekend of July sees the annual Santander Book Fair. This year the guests include the acclaimed Irish historian, Ian Gibson (The Death Of Lorca). The Fair continues until the 14th.  

While it may not be as famous as the bull running at Pamplona, you will find 'San Fermines' celebrations in the Tetuán district of Santander, over the weekend of 5th to 7th July.

The feast of La Virgen del Carmen is celebrated widely across Cantabria on 16th July. There is a major procession in Santander as well as a maritime procession organised by the ferry company, Los Reginas. There are also major events in the Barrio Pesquero of the capital, as well as in Suances, Camargo and San Vicente de la Barquera.

                                                 


Santander’s main summer event – Semana Grande – takes place from the 19th to the 24th of July. Throughout the week you can enjoy live music, street food, local cuisine from the many ‘casetas’ and join the crowds as they mill around the streets and open spaces of the capital. The polo field on the Magdalena Peninsula is converted into a concert venue where you can see top local, national and international performers. 

The Feast Day of Spain's national patron saint, Santiago, falls on Thursday 25th and is a regional Bank Holiday with celebrations taking place in towns and villages across Cantabria. The following weekend (26-28) sees the Cantabria Infinta Folk Festival with concerts in San Vicente de la Barquera (26/27) and Puente San Miguel (28th).

Cantabria honours its institutions on 28th with civic and religious ceremonies. However,as the date falls on a Sunday this year, it is not a Bank Holiday.

The 30th of July sees the start of the Santander Jazz Festival with concerts at the Escenario and different venues across the city.

One of the treats of the summer months is the opportunity to enjoy outdoor cinema in the amphitheatre adjoining the Centro Botín on Santander's waterfront (weather permitting). A full programme of screenings can be found on the centre's website Centro Botín

June

With longer days and warmer weather, Cantabria certainly has a summer feel to it this month. While many small villages will be celebrating their own patron saint, here are some of the most significant events taking place across the region this month. 

Over the weekend of 8 and 9 June you can enjoy the bagpipe fiesta in Unquera, close to the border with Asturias. Participants and competitors will entertain you with displays of traditional music from Cantabria and other parts of Spain. 

The same weekend (7-9) there is a celebration of International Street Food in the centre of Santander with food trucks offering specialities from around the world, accompanied by live music.

Thursday 13th sees the feast of Saint Anthony which is celebrated in several towns and villages including Caviedes, Gibaja and Asón, including San Antonio Rock in Muriedas on Friday 14th.

Folkomillas - a celebration of regional, national and international folk music takes place over the weekend 14-16 June in the magnificent setting of Sobrellano Palace, Comillas.

Join in marking the summer solstice on the appropriately named Calle Sol in Santander on 21st June. On Saturday 22nd, there is a chance to introduce children to the joys and melodies of folk music wat the national festival in Tanos, near Torrelavega. And then the start of summer is declared with bonfires on the beaches of Cantabria on the night of the eve of the feast of St John (23rd- 24th June). 


All along the coast, people gather to welcome the holiday season with many seaside resorts combining the bonfires with live music and other events.

Torrelavega kicks off the main music events of the summer with a three day festival from 27 -29 June with a full programme of Spanish artists for you to enjoy.

The final feast day of this month takes place on 29th June, Saints Peter and Paul (although most celebrations are focused on San Pedro) which often continue throughout the weekend and lead us into July...


May

The month opens with a Bank Holiday on Monday 1st May. Traditionally this is marked with marches and demonstrations in the capital Santander, organised by the Spanish Trades Union movement.

The following Sunday is dedicated with love and thanks to mothers everywhere. 
Happy Mother’s Day! This special day for all mothers is celebrated across Spain on Sunday 5th May. 

There is a treat for vintage car enthusiasts over the weekend 10-12th May when owners of the Spanish favourite, the SEAT 600, will gather in Astillero. The two door, rear engine car was built in Spain from 1957 to 1973 and models from all over the country will be on display over the weekend.

Religious celebrations this month focus on Ascension Day which falls on 9th May with events continuing into the following weekend and followed by the marking of Pentecost (Whitsun) on 19th May.

On 15th May, many areas mark the feast day of San Isidro. More commonly associated with Madrid, San Isidro is an important figure nationally and in Cantabria his feast day is commemorated in various places including Novales, Polientes, Guriezo and Marina de Cudeyo.

While not exactly a fiesta, it is worth mentioning the ‘10 000 de Soplao’.  Starting in Cabezón de la Sal on the weekend of 18 and19 and May, this multi-discipline sporting extravaganza includes challenges for runners, sea swimmers, ultra runners, cyclists, mountain bikers and walkers with a host of gruelling events taking competitors to the coast and into the hills and forests of the Saja-Nansa Valleys.  

April

Easter Monday, 1st April, is a Bank Holiday this year and so many supermarkets, banks and civic offices will be closed.

Many towns and villages celebrate the improving weather and longer days with a celebration of spring, often called 'feria de abril'. These often include aspects such as the costumes, dance and music of the feria in Seville. Over the first weekend of the month (5-7 April), you will find examples in  Solares, Tanos (near Torrelavega), Noja, Laredo (both on the coast) and Unquera (on the border with Asturias) which is also marking the100th anniversary of its recognition as a town.  

From 11-13 motorsport fans can enjoy a Rally Festival at Hoznayo, Trasmiera. Meanwhile, Cabezon de la Sal is hosting a day of events in solidarity with the people of Gaza with talks, a running event, street food, shows and music concerts throughout the day.  

With the Easter services taking place in March, the main religious event this year is the closing of the Holy Year at Santo Toribio (see adjoining page) with religious services and music events to mark the event. Pilgrims will have their next opportunity to walk the Camino Lebaniego, venerate the Lignum Crucis and gain a plenary indulgence in 2028.

The start of April will see the major the major rivers in Cantabria - notably the Ason, Saja and Nansa rivers - overtaken by fishermen with the opening of the fishing season; salmon and rainbow trout are the most popular catches with prizes being offered for the first and largest specimens caught. The season finishes once the year's quota has been reached.

On 13th April you can enjoy a performance of Edward Albee's classic, Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf at the Principal Theatre, Santander. Throughout the month lovers of wildlife and photography can visit the Birds of Europe exhibition in the Jesus Otero museum, Santillana del Mar.

One of San Vincente de la Barquera's principal event, La Folía, takes place over the weekend 19-21st April with its traditional maritime procession in honour of La Virgen de la Barquera.

While Saint George is usually associated with being the patron saint of England, his feast day (23rd April) is widely celebrated across Cantabria including in the villages Vispieres and Cabrojo.

Santoña is renowned for its relation with anchovies - it was the first place in Spain to develop the business of sealing food in tins - and the humble anchovy enjoys a festival of its own in the town over the weekend of 27-28 April.


March

March has its own special welcome in the form of marzas: traditional songs to greet the start of the month and, hopefully, the arrival of spring. Look out for posters advertising local events.  


marzas in the Cantabrian Parliament

However, as the month progresses and perhaps reflecting the sombre traditions of Lent, the first weeks of March tend to be generally quiet as Spain builds up to the ritual and drama of Semana Santa.

This month sees the start of the nature related programme organised by Ecoturismo, in and around Santander. The activities include boat trips, bird watching, plant identification and talks. Their prize exhibit is a family of ospreys that has successfully bred in the Rio Cubas estuary.

A key event to look out for is Santander Nature Watch from 14th-16th March with a full programme of talks and activities in the stunning setting of the Palacio Magdalena. Further details can be found at www.encuentronaturewatch.com Other highlights this month include the 19th March - the feast day of Saint Joseph, the father of Jesus - which is celebrated as Father's Day and, while it is not an official 'festivo', the day is marked across Cantabria. 

The main celebrations across Cantabria in the final week of this month are focused on the religious services associated with Easter. Starting on Palm Sunday (24th March), the streets of the capital and other major towns are taken over by lengthy processions, organised by different religious societies. In Santander there are processions throughout the week, culminating with the celebrations on Easter Sunday.

                            

A truly remarkable interpretation of the events around Easter is portrayed in Castro Urdiales with the Pasión Viviente. This real life dramatization involves large numbers of residents of the town playing the parts of the different characters at various locations around the town. The town’s castle makes a splendid backdrop for the display and the performance is broadcast via loudspeakers throughout the town. The Pasión Viviente begins on the evening of Maundy Thursday and continues through Good Friday.  




The Murgas in Santoña 

  

















No comments:

Post a Comment