A taste of Cantabria

Cantabrian cooking has enjoyed a significantly enhanced reputation over recent years. In part this is attributable to an increase in the variety of styles available, the influence of different cultures and changes to daily routines and eating habits. While it is still possible to find a traditional three course lunch; a seafood platter, or a degustación comprising several courses, there is now an abundance of sushi resaurants, vegetarian specialities, fast food chains, street food outlets and quality burger bars among others. That said, many families or groups of friends continue to gather at home or in a restaurant to enjoy their favourite dishes on a Sunday or for a special occasion. Here are just a few typically Cantabrian recipes to whet your appetite. The quantities given are approximate and can be adjusted to your group size.

Cocido montañés

This hearty meat stew can be seen on menus all year round, with particular areas of Cantabria such as Liébana and even individual restaurants claiming their own versions.

Ingredients; 150g white beans, 250g belly pork, pork chops, black sausage, chorizo, ham on the bone, potatoes, turnips.

Method; soak the beans overnight and then gently boil in fresh water along with the pork including the chops for about an hour. Meanwhile prepare the vegetables and add them to the pot. After fifteen minutes, add the remaining ingredients and simmer until the vegetables are cooked through but still firm. Serve with chunks of fresh bread.

                                                   Anchovy salad with peppers

Anchovies are a local delicacy and add flavour to any dish including salads, soups or risotto.

Ingredients; red peppers, tinned anchovies, half an onion, green olives, one clove of garlic, olive oil and vinegar.

Method; pre-heat the oven to 180 degrees. Brush the peppers with olive oil and place in the oven until soft and golden. Once they are cooked, remove the outer skin and the seeds and thinly slice. Then place them on a plate and mix with the anchovies, sliced onion and the olives. Make a vinaigrette of olive oil, vinegar, crushed garlic and salt to accompany the salad.

                                                           Sorropotún

This classic dish is associated with San Vicente de la Barquera and features ‘bonito’, a seasonal white tuna fished in the seas to the north of Cantabria. Elsewhere it is known as marmita.

Ingredients; One kilo of bonito, 500g of red onion, three green peppers, one kilo of potatoes, three spoons of tomato purée and two hunks of stale bread.

Method; Cut the bonito into chunks and set aside. Finely chop the onion and fry in hot oil in a suitable saucepan. After a few minutes add two litres of water and bring to the boil. Peel and add the potatoes, slice and add the peppers and then add the tomato purée. When the potatoes are nearly cooked, add the fish and boil for another five minutes or until the bonito is cooked through. Drop in the stale bread just before serving.

                                                           Olla ferroviaria

With the development of the railway across northern Spain in the late nineteenth century, providing hot, wholesome meals to railway workers presented something of a challenge. One creative solution was this dish, olla ferroviaria, which served a stew in a sealed, portable container. The meal remains popular, particularly in southern Cantabria.

Ingredients; one kilo of lean beef, one kilo of potatoes, four garlic cloves, onion, olive oil, green pepper, paprika, one tomato, carrots, two bay leaves and roughly chopped parsley.

Method; fry the finely chopped onion and garlic for five minutes and then add the cubed meat and continue frying until the meat is browned. Add the remaining ingredients (apart from the potatoes) and add sufficient water to cover the ingredients. Boil gently for about an hour. Peel the potatoes and cut into medium size pieces and tip into the pan. Continue cooking for 30-40 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Remove the bay leaves and allow the mixture to rest for a few moments before serving.

                                                       Roast sea bream

Sea bream – known locally as besugo – is abundant in the Cantabrian Sea and is readily available in shops and supermarkets. Fishmongers will open the fish into butterfly halves which makes for easier cooking. This method of preparing sea bream is often served with thinly sliced, lightly boiled potatoes.

Ingredients; one large sea bream, cleaned and opened, two cloves of garlic, juice of one lemon, breadcrumbs, one chili pepper, chopped parsley, olive oil, vinegar.

Method; Place the fish on a baking tray, drizzle oil and the lemon juice over it and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Cook in an oven at 150 degrees for twenty-five minutes. Meanwhile peel and finely chop the garlic and lightly fry along with the chopped and de-seeded chili pepper. Remove from the heat and cover with a small amount of vinegar and the chopped parsley. Once the fish is cooked, remove from the oven, pour on the garlic and chili mixture and serve immediately.