One of the most impressive sights and experiences associated with the region of Valderredible is its wide collection of rock churches: places of worship hewn out of the soft, sandy rock prevalent in this part of Spain. The phenomena first appeared around the sixth century and may have been imported from monastic communities in Egypt. One explanation for their presence in northern Spain is that the underground churches were developed so as to conceal them from the Muslim forces that invaded and colonised the peninsula from the eighth century onwards.
There are
thought to be some fifty such sites of historical significance in Valderredible
and nearby you will often find a necropolis, hermitage or hermit’s cell. The
architecture varies with some being little more than a space fashioned out of a
pre-existing cave while others may include arches, separate chambers or an
altar.
The Centro
de Interpretación (Information Centre) is located alongside one of the
finest examples of church and necropolis at Santa María de Valverde, adjacent
to the CA 273, and offers a unique guide to the churches, their history,
architecture and cultural significance. The visitor is conducted on an audio visual
tour by a virtual monk and has the opportunity to witness the artefacts,
lifestyle and surroundings related to medieval monastic life.
On this page
we will introduce you to the most prominent and easily accessible churches with
a brief description of each one and directions its location.
*
Santa
María de Valverde –
next to the Centro de Interpretación, the entrance fee includes a visit
to the church; one of the most developed and best preserved as well as the
adjacent necropolis.
Leave the
A67 at junction 109 and follow the CA 273 towards Polientes for approximately
seven kilometres. The Centro de Interpretación will be on your right.
*
Señora
del Carmen, Cadalso –
a good example of a simple church, originally a hermitage, little more than a
small cave, sitting alongside the main road at Cadalso.
It is on the
left after about seven kilometres as you drive from Polientes on the CA
274/275. There are large signs indicating the church as you approach the
village but, even so, the church itself is easily missed and parking on the
main road can be difficult.
*
Ermita
San San Acisclo y Santa Victoria, Arroyuelos; One of the most remarkable churches in
this collection is to be found at Arroyuelos. This building operated over two
levels with monk cells and quarters on the upper level with a wide church and
large pillar underneath.
The village
of Arroyuelos is signposted ten kilometres to the east of Polientes on the CA
274/275. There are signs to the rock church from the village and you can choose
to drive or walk from the village centre. While you are in the area you can
visit the important church, Colegiata de San Martín de Elines, which is
situated across the main road in the village of the same name.
*
Ermita
rupestre, Tobazo, Vilaescusa de Ebro; If, as has been suggested, part of the motivation for digging
rock churches was to keep them hidden from prying eyes, then they were
certainly successful in this case. The church lies at the top of a steady ascent
alongside an imposing waterfall and is made up of three small caves the middle
of which served as a place of worship and hermitage. There are signs to the
church at the top of walk and, although the approach does involve a climb, you
are also rewarded with brilliant views of the waterfall.
The walk
starts from Villaescusa de Ebro which is adjacent to the CA 275, about twelve
kilometres east of Polientes or seven kilometres west of Orbanejo de Castillo.
There is a large car park opposite the entrance to Villaescusa de Ebro.
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